What To Expect When Getting A Custom Tailored Suit

Lots of men swear by custom suiting. Whether it’s because they can’t find the right fit off the rack or just prefer the experience of designing their own garment, going custom can be as rewarding as it is fun. To most guys, however, it’s a totally new experience—and a potentially daunting one. So, this guide will take you through a typical custom appointment and what to expect.

Looking at fabric swatches for a custom suit

When you come to Andrew Davis for your first custom suit or sport coat, one of our sales associates will greet you and offer a beverage, and then sit down for a chat about what you want. We try to get to know each of our customers personally, and when you’re in looking to build that perfect suit, we’ll ask what you do, what you typically wear, and more to ensure you walk away satisfied.

After we have a solid grasp of what it is you’re expecting, the first step is picking out a fabric. We have a handful of custom boxes, including Southwick, Samuelsohn, and Hickey Freeman. I recently decided to splurge for a new suit of my own, and chose a light gray chalk stripe from the Jack Victor collection.

Next is the styling. The Andrew Davis team is happy to take care of the styling ourselves, offer recommendations, or give you free reign, depending on each customer’s comfort with the process.

Options include the type of lapel, number of buttons, and much, much more. I opted for a double breasted, peak lapel suit, with a gray dotted lining, personal label, and surgeon’s cuffs (aka working buttons).

Finally, we come to the most important aspect of any suit: the fit. We begin by taking measurements directly off your body to get an idea of your size. Based on these, you will try on a jacket which is marked up to get the ideal fit. Then, rinse and repeat with the pants. Of course, the fit you desire is always what we’ll aim for, whether it is fashion model skinny or a classic cut befitting a mob boss. Or my recommendation: somewhere in between.

With the fitting complete, we’re nearly done. The Andrew Davis associate will review everything, and then show you other items from the store to complement the suit you’ve designed. If you’re looking for new shoes, shirts, ties, or anything else, we’re always happy to help you find the perfect piece to bring the whole look together.

After that, it’s easy as checking out and waiting on a phone call. Prices for suits start around $900, depending on the quality of the fabric, the brand you choose to work with, and the options you select. It will typically take 4-6 weeks to arrive at our store, and we reach out to you as soon as we receive them. If possible, you’ll come in again to try on the result, so that if there are any changes we need to make, we can get the suit tailored perfectly to your liking.

Of course, we save all your measurements and information, so ordering the next one can be as easy as calling in and telling us what you want.

The Perfect Suit: 101

There are so many suit shapes and styles out there – what would you suggest for a day-to-day suit for a man with an average build? A slim-fit navy or mid-gray suit with a two-button jacket, side vents, and a fun lining (to bring out the detail while maintaining the integrity and business appropriateness of the suit) and flat-front pants with no cuffs or with stylish two-inch cuffs.

What are the new trends in clothing?

Fitted suits still rule and always should, in my opinion.  Suit lapels are moving back to traditional widths, higher on the shoulder (to broaden the chest and add vertical appeal).   Last year we saw the return of the pocket square and guys are embracing it!  Pair a contrast-color shirt and sport coat with a cotton or linen pocket square during the day and wear fun, colorful pocket squares at night.  Right now we’re placing orders for colorful patterned sports coats to be paired with jeans and collared shirts for dinner and a night out.

What rules should a man follow when purchasing a suit?

If the shoulders don’t fit, don’t buy it!  Make sure the jacket is not too short or long.  A man’s jacket sleeve should allow a quarter to a half inch of his shirt cuff to show. As a general rule, suit pant length should be a quarter inch above the top of the heel; however, shorter and “smarter” lengths might be considered as well.  Great-looking clothing is all about keeping everything in proportion.



By Macey Dale

Time To Suit Up

The suit is coming back and it’s about time.  Men’s fashion magazines say so.  Some companies are ditching casual wear and insisting employees return to business-appropriate dress.  Mad Men at work. A suit is not just an article of clothing, but engenders—or betrays—a state of mind.

Dressing is all about the subconscious.  It’s about how you feel.  You feel responsible in a suit.  The suit is seriousness of purpose.

In a recent survey conducted by Kelton Research, well-dressed men are seen as sexier, smarter and more successful.  In fact, 91 percent of Americans think dressing well can make a man appear more physically attractive than he actually is, while 64 percent believe women are more likely to marry a well-dressed man than a schlub. In addition, 75 percent of Americans believe well-dressed men are more successful at work, and 22 percent of men think they could earn more money if they learned to dress better.

In the all-important sex appeal arena, 78 percent of women think one of the hottest things a guy can do is dress well.  Some 85 percent think a man who dresses well is sexier than one with a lot of money.  And 63 percent of the female respondents preferred a man in a suit to a man in a uniform.  Eighty percent of women said they would give up something in their lives – going out to dinner, using their cell phones or even having sex for an entire year – for a better-dressed partner.

In truth, casual dressing for the office confuses most men.  A suit-wearer does not have to rummage in the closest every morning in a desperate attempt to assemble an acceptable casual business outfit.  Your choices are simple—black, blue, gray, if you’re feeling fashionable, olive, or fashionable brown.  So suit up.

We have the best suit packages anywhere – with alterations included and with true value -- you can rely on the best suits from Andrew Davis Menswear.